For some time I forgot about UDE (Ultimate Diode Experiment), where a diode array is connected to a low leakage capacitor, allowed sufficient time to charge the capacitor, and then a mechanical switch will release the capacitors charge through an efficient LED to light the LED enough to be perceived with the unaided eye.
About a week ago I remembered UDE. Stage 4b design has now changed to UDE.
The goals of the new diode researcher:
1. Achieve personal proof that the diode produces a DC voltage. If you do not want to bother with electrometers and such, then please skip to step 2, UDE.
2. Achieve UDE for the purpose of demonstrating to academic notable scientists. This should be very simple. Place a sufficient amount of diodes in-series to achieve at least 2.3 volts DC. You can achieve high current by placing such groups in parallel such that no two diodes are in direct parallel connection. The entire diode array would be connected across a 10 nF (0.01 uF) low leakage capacitor. I recommend a Polypropylene Film Capacitors by WIMA, part number FKP2-.01/63/5. Next, connect a pin from the mechanical switch to the capacitor pins. Connect the switches other pin to an efficient LED, and connect the other efficient LED pin to the diode arrays other pin. Therefore, when the switch is on/pressed, the capacitor will discharge through the efficient LED. For the efficient LED, I would recommend part number TLCR5800. It is a 7500 mcd red LED with only 4 degrees beam width that produces 190 Lm/W. I have not tested this LED yet, but it looks great on paper. I have charged a 10 nF capacitor to 2.3 volts, and then discharged it on another efficient red LED (I don't have the part number), which I could easily perceive with my eyes. It's amazing the differences between LEDs. Out of ~~ a half dozen tested LEDs, I was able to see just one from a charged 10 nF capacitor. Another efficient untested LED is a yellow LED, part number OVLGY0C9B9, 20000 mcd. It is more efficient, 258 Lm/W, but it has a broader beam width of 6 degrees. Also, the yellow LED requires more voltage. Anyhow, place everything inside a thick Hammond metal shield. Drill a small hole in the Hammond shield to view the efficient LED. Mount the efficient LED up to the small hole. As far as the mechanical switch, there are various methods. Since UDE is so simple, it's probably best to use a tilt switch. There are various types of tilt switches. There are ball types where a small ball tilts and makes contact. I no longer recommend the mercury tilt switches, as their off resistance is far too low. The off resistance should be at least 10 Tohm, preferably > 100 Tohm. Allow the diode array sufficient time to charge the capacitor. Place eye close to the hole near the efficient LED, and press the switch. Make sure the switch is on for only a fraction of a second so as not to fully discharge the capacitor. Since the LED has high resistance below ~ 1.2 volts, the capacitor should not go below ~ 1.1 V any time soon. This setup will most likely require a lot of trial and error since there are a lot of unknowns. You need to find out how many diodes in series you will need to achieve the 2.3 volts. I would recommend that you go far above 2.3 volts because diodes are so easily disturbed! You need to find out how long it takes, on average, to charge the 10 nF capacitor. It would take an *undisturbed* (10 pA) diode array 18 minutes to charge the 10 nF capacitor from 1.2 V to 2.3 V. If the diode array is slightly disturbed at say 1 pA, then it would take 180 minutes (3 hours). My highly disturbed green LED is producing ~ 0.1 pA, and would therefore take such diodes 30 hours. And perhaps the biggest unknown is can the common diode perform continuous work without becoming disturbed. This type of setup will be the ultimate demonstration to notable academic scientists, as there are no batteries inside. You could also test your unit in rural areas, perhaps even inside a cave or mine. Keep the setup far away from strong radio transmitters to prevent disturbance! Do not submit the setup to rapid temperature changes!
I recommend 10 nF since that's easily perceived by the human eyes when charged to 2.3 volts discharged across an efficient LED. The lowest capacitance that worked was 1 nF. Anything less does not have enough stored energy.
For UDE I do not recommend the radio shack LEDs, unless you can afford to buy ~ 100 of such LEDs. The amount of diodes depends how disturbed the diodes are. I used excessive soldering on my recent radio shack LED array, that produced 199 mV for 7 LEDs. So the reference to 100 diodes is a conservative figure. Today I will buy some inexpensive diodes (non LEDs) that cost $0.031 (3.1 pennies) each that should work as well as the LEDs, perhaps better.
What is great about UDE is that it requires no electrometer, nothing but diodes, one capacitor, a Hammond chassis, and a simple switch! That is it!
Created on 2009-07-21 14:59:11 by EnergyMover
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